PLATYPUS DREAMING

Well, I had had a surfeit of beaches by now, though each one had been seemingly more stunning than the last, it was time for a change. A complete change. I needed the cool of a mountain stream, the lush bright green of a rainforest, the song of a bird. And I knew where to get it. I had picked up a leaflet a while ago that had piqued my interest ever since. ‘A fair dinkum Aussie Rainforest Retreat’ it had boasted. ‘A unique experience. The Bushcamp is a privately owned habitat sanctuary with "land for wildlife” status. Set on 20 acres of lowland rainforest bordering Eungella National Park. Swim in pristine freshwater crystal clear swimming holes or watch a platypus in their natural pools. Come to Platypus Bushcamp.’ And I particularly liked… ‘This has to be the best place in the world! ….. So where the bloody hell are you?’  And I liked the look of the Ned Kelly gentleman on the front of the brochure too. Wazza was the owner, who, I was to find, was as unique and Aussie as his bushcamp!

In addition, it was an easy journey from the Leap Hotel, where I had stayed on Bruce Highway. Straight across to the Eungella Road, going through Marian, Mirani, Gargett and turning off 8km just before Finch Hatton town. Then up the Finch Hatton Gorge Road to Platypus Bush Camp. Easy as. 

How can I describe this place? Well maybe it’s already been said for me. ‘Places like this are sanctuary for the soul’ Peter Watt….. it says it right on the brochure! And do you know, For once, it’s right. This place more than lives up to everything it says it is.As I turned into the gateway I saw a small circular, area where a few vans and campers were parked around, with on large caravan jammed in the middle reservation.

 At first I was worried I there wasn’t a space for me, but I saw Ned Kelley sat at an old picnic table between two vans. ‘Office’ said the hand scribbled sign in front of him. I liked this place already. And Wazza was a treasure in himself. A True Blue Aussie. Old school manners, but didn’t give a damn what you thought… or if you stayed! Lol. We hit it off straight away. I parked my Chihuahua right next to the large, rustic kitchen area . A perfect place. I’d noticed by now there was another large area behind this for tents and campers. So really more room than enough, despite Wazza  taciturnly saying “ Not usually this bloody busy.” Then offering a warm hearted grin and a firm, honest handshake.

 The rest of the day was just an absolute adventure for me. An adventure of the best kind! I wondered down the path and over the little makeshift bridge to the toilets. No these were not Dunnys these were REAL flushing toilets. On one of Wazzas and mine  many verbal excursions into the ‘old days’ we laughed about the REAL dunnys we had had as kids, complete with tin garbage cans and wooden seats with huge holes over them. The garbage cans were removed once a week and replaced with clean ones… if we were lucky. But despite the very authentic wooden toilet block here at the bushcamp we did have the luxury of flushes.

 It was like the awesome Raiforest shower there. Handbuilt stone and wood showering areas, open on one side to the rainforest. Yet… with HOT water! Wazza lit the woodlog stove every day to give us this. Marvelous.

Continuing down the path you came to the rainforest tree huts. OMG. You have to spend a night in one of these at least once in your life! Little huts perched high on wooden legs, with wide open windows and views into the forest or the platypus pools. There’s even a honeymoon one. No, there’s no Mod Cons, there’s no fancy sheets, there’s no spa or candles or ‘soothing music’. There IS the absolute tranquility of a Rainforest with views to die for. And crystal clear swimming pools fed by a babbling rainforest stream which runs all the way around the property. Heaven for those who love nature. Oh yes!!!

Wazza himself lives right in the middle of all this on a large, high wooden rainforest house/hut. It is open on three sides but can be closed off by waterproof sheets in the rainy season. Generally Wazza never closes them! Inside is the most beautiful polished wooden floor, large table, some furniture. It’s like living in a Movie. The bedroom is over a small walkway (a little hut ) and the kitchen is open and downstairs on the ground. Again, with modern appliances like BBQs, steel cookers etc. Another open  lounge area is downstairs too, with a swinging sofa, bookshelves made of wood and stone and a beautiful white Cockaoo. Though I don’t agree with birds being kept in cages, I was happy with this one as Wazza feels the same as me about nature and living creatures. They should live free. And this bird, though it’s wings were clipped (Wazza rescued it) walked freely about on perches all around, and the floor, when safe. It is such a gentle loving creature. I am saddened that someone had to take its wings away. Oh and he has a wonderful dog (naturally) called... Dog!

However, the most amazing thing about all these natural wood and stone buildings is that Wazza has made them, with only a little help from friends over a period of 25years! A work of love and joy. And a tribute to the strength of character and ideals of this man. There is one last place to visit which is a must here. The platypus pools. These are still water pools set in the midst of the rushing waters of the stream. So clear you can see the stones beneath. 

These are not for swimming. These are for Platypuses. I think I loved these pools most of all and would spend hours just silently watching the turbulent stream currents swirl over the boulders then somehow, disappear into these tranquil, calm waters. I never saw any Platypus, but I daresay they saw me and stayed away! Platypus are very timid, shy creatures which avoid any contact with others. Plus they are often nocturnal or only seen at sunset or sunrise. It didn’t matter. I loved that pool fringed in bright green ferns and rainforest trees. And I did see many beautiful birds there,including the blue kingfisher, though some I had never seen before.

If you want to you can go up to the Finch Hatton Gorge, too, which is just up the road. Or have a wonderful brekky  or cakes at the organic café  only a couple of hundred meters away. Well I did go to the café but, quite frankly, I had everything I wanted in a rainforest right here.  I will be back. 

"The Earth provides enough to satisfy every man's needs, but not every man's greed.” Mahattma Ghandi
The Grey Chihuahua

A STATION BREW AND A BEACH FULL OF ROOS

Almost everyone who has picked up a post card of Australia will have come across one, of the Roos on the pure white sands of Cape Hillsborough Beach. So I made my way there in a state of high anticipation. Have to say it didn’t start too well though. I had decided not to go all the way back to the Bruce Highway and then go up again to the Cape, but instead to come from Shoal Point and head for Habana, then follow the road down till it met up with the Yakapari -Seaforth Rd . It was going quite well, even though there were roadworks  half way down, and the woman with the stop/slow sign actually said she had SEEN ME two days earlier on the Bruce Highway!

 Well there's a roadworks on every single road I’ve been down, so her being here too didn’t surprise me. Her recognising me surprised me! She seemed a little surprised herself when I said I was taking this road. “You are going down the back road?” she quizzed. “Yes” I said stupidly “I like different roads”. “OK” she smiled and waved me on. What she didn’t do was tell me that this road turned into a rough, rocky track and wound in and out for a damn long way. I was so glad to get to the Yakapari-Seaforth Rd and turn towards Seaforth on the Cape of Hillsborough!

This is quite a pretty road as it turned out and was a pleasant one to journey down (or maybe I was just so grateful it was smooth and tarmacked). But Seaforth was not such a pleasant surprise. There is really not much there apart from a large caravan Park as you enter, which looks more like a showgrounds or grassed parking, a petrol station/shop and another post office/ shop on another road. Give it its’ due though the esplanade is nice. Lovely grassed areas and walking paths, a neat road through with a smart little café in the middle. Not bad. Not great. I left.

Somehow Ball Bay, the next beach, did not grab my interest and I continued on to Cape Hillsborough and the hope that this would be much better. But I had forgotten the most important thing! I hadn’t eaten yet. I had intended to stop in Seaforth, but the café had not enticed me in. My stomach was now complaining bitterly at my selfish disregard of its needs. But sometimes, sheer luck is the only way to describe what happens next. As I looked to my left a small sign said ‘Station Teahouse’. I almost missed it. 

As I turned down the path I noticed there was one car parked on the grass in front of what looked like  some wooden steps in the middle of trees and bushes. Coming closer I saw there was a building in there. However there was also a sign outside. Cream teas, cakes, coffee and teas and more. I was hooked. And it turned out to be the most unbelievable café. An old Railway Station House (obviously no railway there now) in gorgeous repair and the decore carefully added to match. Old china pots and tea sets, old tables and chairs, worn leather suitcases of various sizes, other old but lovely bric and brac dotted around the place. I went in and ordered my cake and tea and sat in happy bemusement on the high verandah overlooking the rambling garden. I had stepped back in time. Absolute magic.

Full once more, and deliriously uplifted, I headed on to Cape Hillsborough Beach.  First impressions were good. There are some marvelous parklands as you enter, with direct entry onto te beach. Then you get to the Main Beach access. Well, actually, then you get to the Caravan Park at the Main Beach, as this dominates the parking area there.  But you can only get as far as the café as the rest  of the Caravan park is cut off for the Caravan Park users, which was fair enough. However the cafe was just a little kiosk really and not pretty. And there were kids. Lots of kids. Yep. It was school holidays.

I actually like kids, but in a place as natural and beautiful and environmentally friendly as this… I'd have liked a little bit of tranquility. So I took myself down to the Beach. Yes there was a path there, and that beach is stunning! A small sheltered cove of pure white sand and the bluest of waters. It actually was as beautiful as the post cards!! There were no kangaroos, but I could understand their reluctance to show themselves at this time, and just went off to enjoy a walk along the sands in their absence. As I neared the rocks at the left side of the beach I saw some lines, so out of place, in the smooth sands of the beach. Walking nearer, the lines came into focus.

 Now,  Anyone who knows me knows I am not a prude. Probably more leaning the other way. But I was annoyed. Not at what had been ‘drawn’ in those virgin white grains, but at the fact it was drawn at all. In another place I would just shrug and say it showed how juvenile they were. But this is an Australian Icon. This is a Beach where other, smaller (hopefully more well mannered) children will play. I hoped to God their parents would be with them and shield them from this sight. The parents of these boguns obviously hadn’t been with theirs. I left, disappointed at the desecration of Cape Hillsborough. But I will go back again because it really is a stunning place.

That night I found myself back on the Bruce Highway at a Hotel called ‘The Leap’. This is a fabulous Old Aussie Pub. A real vintage piece with a real heritage. The story is that in the 1860s, the first decade of European settlement in the Pioneer Valley, an Aboriginal woman, Kowaha, pursued by the Native Police (from an enemy tribe bent on vendetta) chose to leap off the precipice rather than face her tormentors; and that her baby survived, caught on a bush in a shawl, rescued and brought up by some early settlers. as a result of the Europeans using warring factions to police each other there are now no remaining aboriginal survivors of this area. I think  the Europeans may have done this deliberately. But the current publicans are great people too. They allow free camping in their grounds if you just grab a beer or a shower at $2.50. For me it was the shower first. When you are on the road you really appreciate that hot water when you can get it! Then myself and another traveler felt we needed a well cooked meal to round off the day with. Which, for me, meant not cooking it! The Roasts and Vegetables were fabulous, and despite some of the downs of the day, it definitely ended on an 'up'.

Nature paints the greatest works of art .

The Grey Chihuahua

THE BEACHES OF MACKAY

Strictly speaking, I suppose I should have called this blog, ‘The beaches of the MacKay Region’, as I actually start at Carmila Beach then Go to the Northern Beaches.  But let’s have a little poetic licence here, shall we? They were all well worth the visit, anyway, as was MacKay. MacKay itself is quite a busy little city, but it does have an easy road system around it which gets you easily to all the important points of call. I followed the Bruce Highway in then Turned down to see the Blue Lagoon on River St. To my amazement not only did I find this beautiful man made pool system on the banks of the Pioneer River, which is open to all members of the public all year round (though it was a little cool at this time of year- but imagine how amazing it would be in summer!).

 I also found there was a huge shopping complex across the road which had a wide variety of cafes on its front, looking out at the river parklands across. What a great way to enjoy the day! But if you want to find something a little more soothing, follow River St around, turn over the bridge and follow the signs for the Marina. It’s maybe a 30 min drive but when you get there there is a stunning new Marina Village, with boats and yachts bobbing in the harbor, and the lovely lighthouse café where you can sit and daydream about being on one. The Village itself is small and elite, the smaller apartments on the front, the larger houses meandering away to the local beach with it’s long white sandy shores. There is really much more to do in MacKay, which has loads of parks and picnic areas and the beautiful Botanical Gardens too. 

But I digress! I hadn’t even got to MacKay yet. My first port of call was Carmila Beach some 120Km south of MacKay. This place is pure laid back beach. Unspoiled tranquility.  Yes it does have toilets (long drop ones) but that’s it. No drinking water or showers and the nearest town (Carmila) is 7km away, with just one hotel/shop and a service station. So come prepared to be self sufficient and take it as it comes.  It is also a narrow stretch of camp ground, but one which runs along behind a long white sandy beach, shrouded with trees and shrub .

Which is good for the likes of me, as that meant although there were around 20 other campers/ caravans/ tents there, we were all spread out and barely saw each other.  I, however, was lucky enough to find a spot not far from the entrance ,with a great soul mate of a neighbor, Craig, whom I shared several beers and many discussions with (yes, of course he had a dog…Dexy) AND an awesome view. Plus this first part was the more solid ground of the camping area, further up required more or less a 4 wheel drive vehicle! But it was a fabulous place if you really wanted to just tuck away. I spent a week here and thoroughly enjoyed it. Not as ‘pretty’ as Agnes Waters, but far more ‘tropics’. All I was missing was a hammock between the palms. And yes it was free!!! Unbelievable. Oh and I must tell you. When the tide goes out thousands of tiny blue soldir crabs come out sifting for food. Awesome sight.

Blacks Beach

Next was the trip to MacKay and its’ Northern Beaches. These were quite lush and very suburban by comparison, in a nice way. Black’s Beach was first, and I basically, got lost trying to find it! For some reason I kept weaving in and out of the small estate around it, until I realized the street I needed to turn down was more of a little back road. However once there it was gorgeous. This beach has long white sands and endless seas. Oh… and stingers. Big sign!! But it wasn’t the season for them it said. I didn’t chance it, preferring to sip my coffee at the rustic park there. Not a flash, modern beach this one. But a well loved one judging by all the mums and kids that came there to play on the beach. It had a nice feel.

And so to Dolphin Heads. Getting a little more up market now. The houses were bigger, better, the front tidier, smarter. The ride over the hill to get there threw up some stunning views of the bay too. By the time I got to Eimeo Beach, I was definitely in the better income bracket. A beautiful esplanade of well manicured grass  and pristine picnic tables overlooked the lovely bay. And I believe there is a very well known café there which has great views. I didn’t dare find it. I had a budget to keep. But well worth the stop. 

Shoal Point

My final Beach ,and my last as I turned in for the night there, turned out to be my huge favorite. Shoal Point is at the very top of the headland and has the most enormous beach which stretches right around the Point. The houses are nice, but a little less modern, a little more ‘beachy’, a lot more welcoming. As are the lovely people there. I honestly have not met any nicer in my travels. I was a little timid to park up, especially as the best place to park the Chihuahua was in the most amazing spot overlooking the beach, next to the Park and toilets there. And so, I looked for the dreaded ‘no camping’ sign.

 But a friendly local laughed and said “Don’t worry, there’s vans there all the time”. I was gobsmacked. I just hadn’t found this level of acceptance and kindness from locals before. And he wasn’t the only one! No less than three amazing locals came up and put me at ease! One told me to especially take note of the sunset and which road to go up to find the best views. Another where there was a nice walk along the beach. That place was amazing! And so beautiful! A BIG Thank you  to the people of Shoal Point for making that a truly wonderful stay.

A smile is worth more than gold to the person who receives it.

The Grey Chihuahua