SONGS AND SILHUETTES OF THE TABLELANDS

Sunbird- female

As I said in my last blog, there is so much to see and do in the Atherton Tablelands, despite its’ relatively small area. And the Place just teems with birds and wildlife. Even sitting inside or  just outside my Grey Chihuahua I have had ducks, turkeys, pink robins, kingfishers, kookaburras, magpies, cockatoos, corellas, herons, curlews, and the glorious sunbird (which is like the tiniest yellow hummingbird)and so many more, all come and visit. As curious about me as I am about them. Silvered birdsongs wake me in the morning and long, soft, nightcalls lull me to sleep.

Then there’s the wonderful endangered Tree Kangaroo, the elusive Platypus, the many Possums, Turtles,  Wallabies and Kangaroos  up in the highlands and Goannas, Crocodiles and more in the drier lowlands. Everywhere is just amazing, though the green and rolling highlands hold my heart the most.

Lake Tinaroo, right in the middle of the Tablelands, is one of the most special places I have ever visited.. Even on the way there from Lake Baradine along a winding dirt road, you see such marvels as the Cathedral Curtain Fig Tree. The Cathedral Fig Tree, is a gigantic 500 year old strangler tree which towers into the azure blue sky , dwarfing all around it. There are  also several National Parks Camping sites here you can visit or stay at. And these are one of the few areas that there is phone and network reception in. However, I do suggest you visit first to see which one you like then book as NPQueenslands horrific booking system does not allow you to change sites once booked.

My view from The Grey Chihuaha- Camp Barabadeen

 Around the lake there are Camps like Fongon Bay and School Point on the south eastern side. These were too out of the way and not as pretty as the others to me. Also getting there was over some pretty rough roads full of corrugations and potholes. Kauri Creek, Downfall Creek, Platypus Rock  on the other side, were much nicer and easier to get to and, at only $5.75 per night, well worth spending time there. Then there is Camp Barabadeen, A scout camp next to Platypus Rock on the map, for $8 a night . With hot showers and drinking water- which the others don’t have. I love this Camp most of all. Small campers, such as the Chihuahua, can park right up to the lake, with the most stunning views you could wish for. Especially at evening when it becomes a silhuette of willowy gums with their delicate, fronds of leaves dappling against the purple and pinks of a still lake. It is like looking at the very finest of papercutting art. Though better, for no human hand could ever match the minute detail of Nature. Unfortunately, this Camp isn’t really any good for larger caravans as the road is steep and very difficult with no large flat areas. It is, after all a CAMP ground. I am so glad my Chihuahua is small as I can get to so many places that larger vehicles cannot.

My friend at Barabadeen:)

 I have to say though that the village of Tinaroo is just as lovely where you can sit at the only café there (at the one and only  caravan park)or go to look out over Tinaroo Dam, or wander through the beautiful lakes Edge parklands. There is a gorgeous Holiday Resort Hotel right at the edge of the lake too, but I have no idea of the cost.

Tinaroo Village

Neranda Tea Plantation

If you want to go a little inland for a unique experience, there is Nerada Tea. A tea plantation which allows you to look through the factory for free and a café which does lovely cakes, plus a vast array of their teas at a very reasonable price! I had the Devonshire Scone with jam and a massive pot of double cream and tried their honeyberry tea for just $7. It is quite a way out and not signed well but really worth it. BTW they have Tree Kangaroos which live nearby in their specially planted trees. One, named George, can be often be seen there:)

Rocky Creek War Memorial Park

Not far away from here is the pretty Town of Atherton, set in forested hills and dales, where you can buy just about anything. Then take the Kennedy highway north and Tolga is just up the road. A little town full of special places. Arts and crafts, Gems, wholesale Fruit and Veg  and the Humpy Nut world or the Peanut Place. Somehow, the countryside changes, from here, and becomes drier and more arid and leads to a favorite free Camp of mine. The Rocky Creek Memorial Park. This is just a wonderfully well kept, great place to visit. One part is all stone monuments for the myriad of Forces in Army, Navy, Airforce, Police etc. Really worth seeing. The other section is a picnic area with clean toilets. The other, HUGE area is a 72hr stop for RVs. There is a donation box there which I hope everyone puts into as this place is a MUST to keep going. 

Mareeba Heritage Mueum and Information Centre

Coffee (Doesn't) Works

And onto Mareeba. I really liked this friendly, down to Earth town, with its’ War Museum, its Heritage Museum, Boutique Wines and many shops.Plus a working Drive in Movie Theatre, showing the latest movies at the weekends! What an awesome blast from the past, for me. BUT, I cannot recommend the Coffee Works there. A large, very commercial, place(another one in Cairns) which has a big coffee café (selling local and boutique coffees) and chocolate shop an overstocked jumble of household accessories shop. Four words. Overpriced and poor value. 

Herberton Historic Village

Going from Atherton again, but south this time, you can take the road, up through lush hills, to Herberton. Gorgeous little place. Here is a beautifully maintained, massive Historic Village to browse around, for just $27 entry. This is a MUST to see. The Village is fully operational with each house open, some amazing machinery and acturate details. Herberton itself is very pretty too and kept in an old world state, in keeping with the area. and there is a caravan park. But No free camp :(

Ravenshoe Steam Engine

Carrying on over the hills, you drive through some lovely, to the flatter  countryside of Ravenhoe. This is definitely an RV friendly little town. Not as cute as Herberton , but the Steam Railway, though not working, is great to see AND offers a place to stay. At $15 powered and $10 unpowered with hot showers, toilets and washing machines- THIS is exactly what we travelers are looking for nowadays. The village has all the shops you need too! I spent there as I believe we all should in towns that offer such sites.

The final place is, perhaps, the best known in the area. And one which I am strangely at odds with. Kuranda. The scenery here is nothing short of stunning, perched, as it is, high in the hills above Cairns. To get there from Cairns requires some good driving skills and concentration for the steep road which twists and turns on incredibly tight, sharp angles. From the Mareeba side the access is flatter and easier. Kuranda itself is just plainly a tourist destination. Everything there is all about getting visitors to spend money. But it isn’t a heartless place. The people there are very laid back and friendly. In fact it almost shrieks… Hippysville! 

Many of the main streets shops are tawdry and ‘alternative’ with plenty of tie-dye clothing and crystals. And the odd Aboriginal Art Gallery or Souvenir shop. Plus plenty of little, reasonably priced, cafes. Yet the huge Market there is like Little Asia! Honest to God. As I  meandered, in bemusement, there, I felt as if had been transported to Thailand or China. The tiny little stalls are stuffed full of cheap Asian trinkets, the cafes offer dumpling and all varieties of fragrant rice dishes, and the polite, tiny stallholders are 99% Asian!

I was even more confused when I went to see the Main two attractions here. The Historic Rainforest Railway and the SkyRail. The Railway is a superbly kept Steam Train which runs through the tops of the Rainforest down to Cairns and back. It is like stepping back in time but in the best possible way. The Railway platform has a tiny little old worldly café too. Just perfect! The SkyRail, across the road, is a modern glass capsule which hovers well above the Rainforest, allowing you 360degree vistas of the area as you slide down the cable to Freshwater Station or come back up again.

 

I felt disoriented. Yes I liked the Railway and Skyrail. They were well done and worthwhile. The main street I was not so happy with. I think I expected something more in keeping with the beauty of the Railway, so more pretty cafes and less tie dyes. And the Market, I didn’t like at all! This is Australia, and I really wanted to see something in keeping with Australia, NOT Asia. Nothing here seemed to gel. It was a mish mash of ideas, ethnic values and tawdry tourism that just didn’t work. The only place I did feel comfortable in was the local Foodworks. Same all over Australia :) Oh … and the lovely Barron Gorge a few kms away, where you could stand and see where the Steam Train rolls past the Falls (there’s even a platform there that you can get off the train at), on its way through the Rainforest to Cairns. Or just go on a walk through the Rainforest there.

Will I go to Kuranda again? Well I would go on the Railway, but I would avoid the Market like a plague! ... and probably most of the Main Street as well. Shame.

Take time to reflect on what is there today for it may not exist tommorrow.
The Grey Chihuahua

 

WATERFALLS, LAKES AND MAGIC

Milla Milla Falls

Magic abounds everywhere in the Atherton Tablelands. Look up and you will see trees so tall they touch the sun, Ferns so wide a whole family can shelter beneath them, lush hills that roll and dip like fairground rollercoasters. And lakes so crystal clear and smooth as glass that they sing with silence.

Coming from the South, I took the inland route to Innisfail, to start my journey, staying at Japoonvale overnight, a lovely free spot next to a wide Liverpool Creek. The scenery was already beginning to be verdant and rich with Cane. I would have stayed a little further up at Mena Creek, but the Hotel there had been forced not to allow campers by the council, due to the stunning but greedy Paronella Park there, which ran its own caravan park.

Paronella Park

Paronella,was built by José Paronella who’s dream was to build a castle. He did build that castle... and so much more!  It was opened in 1935 and is well worth a visit. But I had been before, and, in any case, did not like autocracy it was showing against the hotel.  So, onto Innisfail and the beginning of an adventure. And for me, a love affair, with the beautiful Atherton Tablelands.

Innisfail is a good sized town, and a great place to stock up before going any further. It’s also a good idea to book here for Henrietta Creek (National Park), where I was heading to, as there’s virtually no signal for much of the journey there.

Mamu Skywalk

From here on in you really can see the difference in scenery The roads start to climb and wind into a cooler, fresher climate and cane gives way to rolling hills filled with well fed, soft eyed dairy cows. I almost could imagine the Von Trapp Family from The Sound of Music on the top of one of those hills. . Then slowly, thick, lush, Rainforests abound, waterfalls and gushing creek begin and you are taken into a totally different world. Just before Henrietta Creek Campsite, (which is stunning, spacious, flat and so accessible being set just at the side of the main road, though you wouldn’t know it was there) is Mamu Rainforest SkyWalk. Oh, come on now,…. A walk right up at the top of the trees? Of course I had to!

And Mamu is incredible! At Only $22 for an adult, it was worth twice as much. This is an hour and a half walk that snakes gently up through the lofty rainforest on flat paths and along wide walkways, which jut out above the trees, along steep slopes. The final destination here is the Tower. It takes 100 steps up the stairway to reach the spectacular viewing deck which is 37meters above the ground! Did I make it? Eeeer… OK, not quite. But I did get half way before my legs turned to jelly and I had to make an embarrassing decent, almost crawling down. Maybe that’s not an achievement for some. But believe me, for me IT IS! Plus there are so many wonderful places to sit and watch nature here, the way back was easy. And Henrietta Creek was the perfect place to stay that night. I parked in no 6 bay, a secluded little wooded area not far from Gilligans creek and some lovely falls walks and slept that night with the woodland fairies. Yes the Magic had begun.

Henrietta Creek

Mungalli Falls

The next day I travelled to Mungalli Falls and pulled in at the big café/ student resort at the top. The falls were really lovely with a great viewing platform, but there was a large contingent of Chinese students finishing their breakfasts so I decided to go on up the road to the Organic Dairy and Cheesery. Which was closed till 10am. No worries. The day was young and the scenery of rolling hills and dales and so many beautiful cows was nice to travel through. And so onto the Falls Circuit, which took me to Ellinjaa Falls, Zillie Falls, and MillaMilla Falls.

Milla Milla Falls

 It was a lovely drive and each of the falls spectacular in their own way, but Milla Milla was magnificent! My breath was taken away by these stunning Falls. Perhaps it was due to the fact I had been so lucky to be here on my own and able to wander in freedom, but I could so imagine a great Film being made here. I could picture the camera crews on the grassy platform that floated into the pool at the bottom of the Falls. I could see them panning their shots from the native Australian White Gums at the top of the Falls, down the long drop of white, turbulent waters , then  across the angular, rugged, basalt rocks at the base of the falls, to the still waters beneath. Maybe two people would be here, swimming in the calm waters, playing out a scene. Not of this era, but of ages ago.

Milla Milla Falls Cafe

 I left slowly and reluctantly as the first of the days visitors emerged. But I didn’t travel far. Just up the Road to Milla Milla Falls Café. My stomach told me it was time to eat! And I couldn’t have a lovelier place than this, overlooking the fertile grassy hillsides. After this a quick look at pretty Milla Milla town and then onto Malandra another nice town with a fabulous all things Dairy Cafe where I just HAD to indulge in the homemade cheesecake with homemade ice-cream and real cream. Oh, come on. You would too. Actually the Cafe was really special with life sized cows, a 1940s bar and a TRAIN outside.

  After which I promise you I indulged no more but veered off to Lake Eacham. What can I say? Everywhere I looked here in the Tablelands was awesome! Lake Eacham was undeniably that. A large, round Lake with a gorgeous picnic area, viewing platforms and walks around the lake. So still and tranquil, yet bathed in sunlight. Places to swim, places to look, places to sit. I did the latter two, lol.

 The huge bonus here was my finding Turtles at one of the viewing platforms. Not just a couple mind you, but around 20! And they were families! From Big Mr Turtle, to Medium Mrs Turtle to all sizes of young and baby Turtles! I was enraptured! They seemed equally mesmerized by us I have to say, sticking their heads out of the water and peering up at the strange, ugly creatures above them.  Weird Looking Things, you could almost hear them say.

After that, although Yungburra has to be one of the prettiest towns I have ever seen, nothing could quite overcome the wonder of the Turtles. So getting in supplies again and having a look at some of the interesting shops and galleries there I moved on to Kairi, a little town with a generous, free 24 hr, grassy stopover for the night. My aim for the following day was to be the largest Lake in the Tablelands, Lake Tinaroo. But first a good, very self satisfied sleep was in order.

Magic is everywhere that nature is.
The Grey Chihuahua