I'M OFF TO SEE THE WIZARD

I woke up the next day in a state of both high anticipation AND fearful trepidation. I was finally at Jervis Bay! What if it wasn’t anything like I expected? I swung between highs and lows. It’s times like this that I question the state of my mental health. And before I get loads of comments flooding in (particularly from my family!)- Yes, it’s probably been in question for years.  In which case- what the hell- I’d made it all the way along the yellow brick road and now I was off to Oz!

I chose to go down the Wool Road to call in at Basin View first. Which was a nice little place with a lovely bay. The thing I was beginning to notice was the buildings were somehow turning into a more tropical feel. Maybe it was the increasing number of Palm plants or just the relaxed wooden houses dotted about. Then on to Sanctuary Point, with its shopping centre and curving paths around the bay. Equally pretty with its white sands stretching out to the blue waters of St Georges Basin. And finally, unable to wait any longer, onto Booderee National Park. The heart of Jervis Bay. This was IT.

Booderee

Booderee is owned by the Wreck Bay Aboriginal Community and is a significant place of home and spirit for the Koori people. There is a fee for entry of $11 for a 2day pass, or you can camp overnight  at some of the most spectacular beaches along its coast for around $17 per night. There are few roads in as the Koorie keep this place as natural and unspoiled as possible. And it works. This is a very spiritual and special place. I was so glad I got to see it.

Hyams Beach

On the way out I went down to Hyams Beach. The only beach town near the Booderee, but not yet in it. What a place. It still has the easy spirituality of the Booderee despite its many tourists there. The houses are lovely too, perched on the hilly roads around the stunning white sands for which Jervis Bay is famous for. A few of the houses as you go in are still the actual early wooden beach houses originally there. But it was a Sunday and, as I said it, full of tourists, also there for those white sands. Though I did appreciate the old cars pulled up at my favorite little café there. Well there were only two cafes, and this one had a dog, who just OWNED the place! A beautiful tan mastiff,who laid across the only doorway in or out, waiting for the homage due to him. I loved the fact the owners recognized his regency and never tried to shift him.

Vincentia

Huskisson

And so, with slight sadness, I left Hyams Beach and went to Vincentia. A very well manicured, town with long pathways around the beach and little snickets leading down to the sands and calm blue seas. Given over, I should think, to many happy retirees. It was nice, but nothing like Hyams. Huskisson was next. And I did like it here. I think I expected it to look wealthier or more pristine than it did. I was glad it didn’t. Instead it was a happy vibrant little town with a great park for adults and children alike, looking over the sands of the bay. For the children there was a huge climbing rope area and playground, for the adults many seated picnic areas and an awesome BBQ  place. I spent some time looking at the harbor too, with its dolphin and whale watching excursion boats at the ready. Then I saw something I just had to have! A soulvenir? No. A piece of Huskisson… not really. Food? Yes. Actually it was the wrappings of the food I really wanted, but what was inside was pretty good too. I bought a Domino’s pizza with ‘You’ve always said.. It pays to be different!’ on the front lid. Oh, c’mon, how could I not buy this? It was so me :-D !

After that, nothing could make it any better, and so I drove back to Wandandian for my last night there. So happy!

(BTW. Did I tell you I met another Chihuahua at Huskisson. This one came in miniature! )

So you see…Sometimes your Dreams can come True. You just need to keep believing in them
The Grey Chihuahua 

FOLLOW THE YELLOW BRICK ROAD-AND FIND A FRIENDLY STINGRAY!

Well that’s what getting to Jervis Bay felt like! For some reason Jervis Bay has always held some sort of ‘draw’ for me. Yes, I associate it with dolphins and whales, which I love to see- but other places have those too. I suppose I also associate it with nature, which it has in abundant diversity. But that’s not it. I don’t know what it is but I’ve always wanted to go there. And here I was, almost there.

OK maybe NSW roads are not quite this bad.

But, somehow, getting from Maloney’s Beach to Jervis Bay became arduous and full of twists and turns. For one thing, although there are signs all along the main A1, to take it slow, rest and revive, there is practically no-where you can turn off the highway to do so! No little stops like in Victoria right up to Eden in NSW where there are picnic tables and toilet stops. No, here, there just this huge long winding highway with steep hill and treacherous curves and a speed limit of 100km per hour, which means if you do less you are swiftly holding up a huge backlog of irate drivers. And after Bateman’s Bay it was as if everywhere had a price on it. There were more caravan parks, less camping sites and even the camping sites began to have charges on them. By the time I reached Shoalhaven district, where Jervis Bay is, it was almost impossible to find a free camp. And the nearer to Sydney, the higher the prices!

beautiful Ulladulla

However, although I could not for the life of me find Sunburnt Beach, which was going to be my next free camping spot, near Termeil, I did visit several little beauty spots along the coast. Ulladulla, is gorgeous. Quite big for a coastal town, but the harbor was beautiful and I found  the old lighthouse, on the outskirts awesome.  Set above the dark, grey slabs of rock, protruding from the headland , on the migration route of whales, and swathed in storm swept scrub, it had a bleak but fascinating presence. Mollymook, a little further was also to my liking. Behind the long green lawns and picnic tables or the beach reserve lay a wide sandy bay, pretty and somewhat English.

An outdoor GYM at Mollymook! Every town should have one

Mollymook

But, the weather was turning. I had had such glorious sunny days up to now, and although the weather was still warm, it was now overcast and spitting of rain. I had also begun to worry about my battery. The lack of sun in a couple of days, plus me not staying in one place long enough to charge up meant a significant drop in the voltmeter to 11.9. Not enough to really be a worry, but with dark days looming, I thought now was the time to find a powered site.  I knew that a powered site at a Caravan Park would cost $30 per night minimum. But I managed to find one nearby at Milton Showgrounds for $19! And although it was a pretty basic place, the power was just what I needed. Especially when it rained that night! And when I left the next day I found that Milton is actually a lovely country town. Very bustling and full of historical sites.

A wet and Windy Milton Showgrounds

I was now almost at Jervis Bay. The next stop at Wandandian would allow me to visit the area the next day. But on the way to Wandandian I made two more detours. One to Bendalong. Which was one of the best excursions I have ever made. . Small and hidden it held the treasure of endless white sand beaches and aqua green,clear water. And in those waters- a meeting with a friendly stingray. Yes- I said friendly! This giant black orb swam close to the shore, lifting its’ black

wings up from the water, as it neared, as if to say hello. And people patted it gently in awe and amazement as it slowly passed. It did this not once, but several times, moving to and fro across the bay. I am always humbled by how trusting and awesome other species can be with humans. I wish humans could live up to that trust and understand our role as guardians.

And the other trip was to Sussex Inlet. Very English- but not in a good way. Very pricey. Enough said.

Aww c'mon- don't be afraid. Pat me!

And so to the stop at Wandandian. The tennis club there are wonderful keeping this well kept stopover going for travelers. I fear it won’t always be so, as there are people who will always abuse good nature. Like the selfish, self centred idiot who hooked up to their water to fill his enormous tanks, then buggered off for the day, still leaving it hooked up. What a…..

And so, after an oddly unsettled few days, of both highs and lows, I huddled down under the bedclothes, listening to the gently falling rain, and waited for tomorrow and the end of the yellow brick road.

May all your paths lead to your hearts destination.
The Grey Chihuahua

KANGAROOS IN THE KITCHEN

Guests for tea at Maloney's Beach

After Lake Brou my next point of call was to be a little place called Potato Point just up the road. It promised flat, green lawns, toilets, drinking water and an abundance of kangaroos. And it didn’t disappoint! Although only a hop, skip and a jump from Lake Brou,(no pun intended regarding the masses of kangaroos, though I can see why they prefer Potato Point!), it was about as far away as you could get in scenery. It was like entering another country! Lush and tranquil, it sits on a river teeming with fish, the Ocean to it’s back. The grassy park, where the RVs  rest up, is beautifully manicured. I’m just not sure if someone actually goes around with a mower or if the Roos do it all for them. I counted 25 as guests that evening, I munching on my meal of pasta and fruit, and they on the tender shoots of green grass around me. They were very good guests, but way too party going for me. I left them, to sink thankfully into my bed at 9pm. I swear they were still there at 10pm.

Gorgeous McKenzies Beach, just before Moruya.

The next day, having filled up my water, I intended to head for the beach at Congo Point, though this one would cost $10 pr night as National Parkland. Somehow I never made it there. Not quite sure what happened but I went on to the lovely town of Moruya. Winding up and over the hilly A1 there I decided to take the tourist drive over the estuary and turning left. The first stop was Bar Beach Lookout. I love this place. It is only a day stop area with a big car park, but there is so much crammed into such a little place. It has breathtaking views of Moruya, the countryside and the Ocean. There’s a great picnic area, a sheltered swimming hole, surfing beach and the bar itself. The bar is manmade of huge stone, blocks , jutting aggressively into the Ocean, staunchly sheltering all within from the damaging waves. I enjoyed my walk out there, despite the wind battling my every step. And the view was worth it.

Mosquito Bay

And so onto Broulee, a place I was surprised to find myself liking so much. Very nice, fairly well to do, area with a good beachy feel to it. Guerilla Bay a bit further up was well named, in comparison, let me tell you. Definitely more bushland than beach. A little rough around the edges and not a place I would like to be in after dark! Malua was next, and a joy to see. Great curve of a beach, very family friendly. I like it a little further on near Mosquito bay. I stopped at a

Caseys Beach

friendly café there with a wonderful outside area to sit and enjoy the view. And I did. Afterwards, I went through Lilli Pilli without even realizing it! I almost turned around to check if I’d missed the road or something. But there was only one road- and I was on it. So up to Surf Beach, Denhams Beach, Catalina Beach….Oh, you get the picture. They were all excellent, but sadly all blurring into one, by now. The only one that really stood out was Casey’s Beach. A sheltered cove with a little picnic area, that somehow just stood out as the best of them all.

I was, of course, by now at Bateman’s Bay! Again I was surprised to like such a busy place. Not usually the sort I want to spend much time in. But Bateman’s Bay has that certain something. In my case it was “The Mockingjay part1’ DVD!  I’d been waiting to get for a while and found it in Target. I cannot tell a lie, this put a bit of a rosy glow on Bateman’s Bay for me, though even so, I liked the easy layout of the shopping area where nothing was difficult to find and the beach was only across the road.

I left Bateman’s with a big smile on my face and an air of urgent anticipation. I was headed for Maloney’s Beach North Shore Camp area, and a night spent watching The Mockingjay. Look I love nature and great scenery… BUT….. there’s a place and time for everything. Tonight was the turn of the Movie. Which was a great idea. Shame that the process wasn’t quite as easy. I got to Maloney’s Beach easily. That was only 15minutes from Batemans Bay. But could I find the camping area? No way. The signs here said ‘no camping’. Frustrated I contacted a mate who had passed a blissful night there he said, for directions. Turns out it was right here that he had camped. “Oh don’t worry Di” he said” The beach is stunning there, the locals are really friendly, and the signs are only for the forests and beach. Just park anywhere.”  Bless him!

But This is something I hate doing. If there’s a ‘no camping’ sign it’s there for a reason! It means if you are caught there’s a hefty fine! But I was shattered and so I pulled over onto the only flat surface I could find, far from the beach, ludicrously trying to hide from the houses, behind the only (and incredibly sparse) tree there. 

However he was right. Maloney’s Beach is stunning, especially to have a long walk on an evening on! And the locals are extremely friendly. And inquisitive. I stopped counting after 67 Roos joined me in the field, and closed my door when one came in for a cheeky look, craning their neck to suss out the insides of the Grey Chihuahua. Bunkering down for the night, I closed all curtains, and set the DVD on. Biscuits and tea at the ready. Taking one last sneaky peaky outside, I looked through a crack in the curtain. Straight into the eyes of yet another all too friendly local. The Roos were multiplying, and none too understanding of personal space. I turned off the lights and turned on The Mockingjay.

And So-May all your meal times be blessed with welcome guests.
The Grey Chihuahua

GOBLINS AND GOANNAS

As I left my heart at Gillards Beach I had two things in mind. To get to Bermagui and find an ATM (I figured I would not get far on the $2 left in my purse) and to buy more little butane gas cylinders for my camping stove which I needed for boiling my water for my teas and coffees. Actually these had lasted me pretty well up to just, averaging about two canisters a week- approx. $5. And the trip was not arduous, passing through some lovely farm countryside and skimming the edges of the sea. I particularly loved the little wooden bridges I had to pass over every so often. Both for the quaint beauty of them and the fact that it meant the assholes behind me who had been flying down the road, trying to push me to be faster also had to go no more than 45km! Ahh, justice :-)

But as I came into Bermagui, I saw vehicles lining every street there. It was the big Country Show! Now, normally, shows or markets don’t particularly interest me, unless I’m in need of a particularly nice chutney, but I saw the Octopus and the Gee Whizz in the distance and a sudden flood of nostalgia swept over me. Visions of Coconut Shies and Cupie Dolls dressed like angels burst from my memories.  I was a 10 year old kid again in the country town of Millicent, South Australia, at the big, annual, County Show there. And I was going to go to the Show again to

buy one of those incredibly wonderful Cupie Dolls! It didn’t take long to find the ATM and the canisters which were at Masters Hardware, where I also could park the Grey Chihuahua, and then over to the Showgrounds I went. Alas it didn’t take me long to realize that, times.. and Country Fairs… are changed. This was really just a very good, large Market, with all the usual stalls you find in any Country Market. Yes they had chutney stalls. And Honey, and lavender goods, and clothes and massage and… all the usual stalls…… but no Cupie Dolls. One saving grace was they did have a wonderful array of vintage cars there, which I took my time looking around. I think I even found an Old Holden Ute the same as we used to have back in the 60s. But it really was no solace and so I left lovely Bermagui and spent the night at Cobargo instead.

The reason for choosing Cobargo was simple. The Hotel there lets you stay for free (well, if you buy a $3 hot shower or a drink of beer. I had both) and the publicans are lovely friendly people, much like the town. Cobargo is set in the lush countryside, but isn’t quite like you would expect a little country town to be. It’s quite unusual.. in a good way. Very Arts and Crafts (there were Ned Kelly metal sculpttures in front of the tyre place) and even a little bit hippy with its store full of Stones and Dreamcatchers and tie dyed clothes. Well worth the visit.

The next day was a trip to Narroma, on the coast. Two things stood out here. A big hotel there on the hill called ‘The Whale’ (My brother used to play AFL and his nickname was The Whale, and after the AFL he became a publican!) and beautiful Bar Beach there. The great stone monoliths of the man made harbor, hold a swimming lake to one side and sandy surf beaches to the other, affording panaromic views of Narooma.

The Witches Dunny

But that wasn’t the final stop. The final stop was a free camp I had seen on Wikimaps called Brou Lake Camping just past Dalgety. It sounded very similar to Gillards Beach, even down to a dirt road drive to get there. Hmmmmmm. Dirt drive- yes. LONG dirt drive, in fact, with corrugated patches, deep holes and narrow track. I had to stop twice to check I was on the right path and hadn’t missed the turnoff. And the vegetation wasn’t quite the same either. How can I put it? A little bit eerie? You know, the type of magical woods/ evil forest type? Many of the trees near the road were twisted and bare, limbs torn off unevenly, jagged against each other. Grey as ghosts, even in sunlight, yet oddly interspersed with lush bright green ferns and a background of living, healthy giant gums.

It didn’t get much better when I found the campsite. A little old witches cottage sat on my left (later to be re-named The Dunny) and in the middle of  the caravans and little tents was a large, eerily, empty tent, the chairs still outside as if someone was just about to return. Still full eskys, cutlery, crockery,  knives and an axe were strewn about the floor before them and a little table with gas stove hid at the back. The kettle sat there, on top, waiting for that invisible touch to ignite the butane cylinder still inside. But the Goblins were no where to be seen... yet! I’ll be honest.  I nearly left there and then.

However the other campers were lovely and explained it had been there for days with the police already visiting and the Ranger would call soon to take it away. So I gingerly parked next to it, pointing the Chihuahua outwards, for a quick getaway. Thank fully the stoic, amused ranger did come and soothed my frayed nerves, explaining it did happen occasionally, for various reasons, then just took it all down and put it in her truck. At which point…. The owner turned up! I will not say anything here… other than….. couldn’t they just have chucked everything in the damn tent before they left, instead of leaving it like the Marie Celeste? Jeeeze.

Despite all this I was Happy I stayed. Brou Lake is tranquil and pristine and I saw hundreds of swans sailing together on it in the morning as I dabbled my toes in its cooling waters. Then with only a thin line of Dunes separating them, at the far end, lies the Ocean. Swimming, fishing and Boating take place on the lake.Yet, though, the beach arches all the way around from Dalgety to Potato Point, the sea is magnificent but too rough for anything but fishing. I also saw lots of wildlife there including my first large Goanna  of this trip! And some very friendly (greedy) kookaburras.

AND. I met a lovely Scotsman, Gordon, who was also traveling Australia, before returning home to travel Europe.  And I have to say He made the stay there one of my best. It’s funny but if you find a friend you have so much in common with- it doesn’t matter where you are. Not even in the enchanted forest. So thank you Gordon and may your journey bring you great happiness.

And to you all- may your Goblins be as imaginary as mine were:-)
The Grey Chihuahua