GOBLINS AND GOANNAS

As I left my heart at Gillards Beach I had two things in mind. To get to Bermagui and find an ATM (I figured I would not get far on the $2 left in my purse) and to buy more little butane gas cylinders for my camping stove which I needed for boiling my water for my teas and coffees. Actually these had lasted me pretty well up to just, averaging about two canisters a week- approx. $5. And the trip was not arduous, passing through some lovely farm countryside and skimming the edges of the sea. I particularly loved the little wooden bridges I had to pass over every so often. Both for the quaint beauty of them and the fact that it meant the assholes behind me who had been flying down the road, trying to push me to be faster also had to go no more than 45km! Ahh, justice :-)

But as I came into Bermagui, I saw vehicles lining every street there. It was the big Country Show! Now, normally, shows or markets don’t particularly interest me, unless I’m in need of a particularly nice chutney, but I saw the Octopus and the Gee Whizz in the distance and a sudden flood of nostalgia swept over me. Visions of Coconut Shies and Cupie Dolls dressed like angels burst from my memories.  I was a 10 year old kid again in the country town of Millicent, South Australia, at the big, annual, County Show there. And I was going to go to the Show again to

buy one of those incredibly wonderful Cupie Dolls! It didn’t take long to find the ATM and the canisters which were at Masters Hardware, where I also could park the Grey Chihuahua, and then over to the Showgrounds I went. Alas it didn’t take me long to realize that, times.. and Country Fairs… are changed. This was really just a very good, large Market, with all the usual stalls you find in any Country Market. Yes they had chutney stalls. And Honey, and lavender goods, and clothes and massage and… all the usual stalls…… but no Cupie Dolls. One saving grace was they did have a wonderful array of vintage cars there, which I took my time looking around. I think I even found an Old Holden Ute the same as we used to have back in the 60s. But it really was no solace and so I left lovely Bermagui and spent the night at Cobargo instead.

The reason for choosing Cobargo was simple. The Hotel there lets you stay for free (well, if you buy a $3 hot shower or a drink of beer. I had both) and the publicans are lovely friendly people, much like the town. Cobargo is set in the lush countryside, but isn’t quite like you would expect a little country town to be. It’s quite unusual.. in a good way. Very Arts and Crafts (there were Ned Kelly metal sculpttures in front of the tyre place) and even a little bit hippy with its store full of Stones and Dreamcatchers and tie dyed clothes. Well worth the visit.

The next day was a trip to Narroma, on the coast. Two things stood out here. A big hotel there on the hill called ‘The Whale’ (My brother used to play AFL and his nickname was The Whale, and after the AFL he became a publican!) and beautiful Bar Beach there. The great stone monoliths of the man made harbor, hold a swimming lake to one side and sandy surf beaches to the other, affording panaromic views of Narooma.

The Witches Dunny

But that wasn’t the final stop. The final stop was a free camp I had seen on Wikimaps called Brou Lake Camping just past Dalgety. It sounded very similar to Gillards Beach, even down to a dirt road drive to get there. Hmmmmmm. Dirt drive- yes. LONG dirt drive, in fact, with corrugated patches, deep holes and narrow track. I had to stop twice to check I was on the right path and hadn’t missed the turnoff. And the vegetation wasn’t quite the same either. How can I put it? A little bit eerie? You know, the type of magical woods/ evil forest type? Many of the trees near the road were twisted and bare, limbs torn off unevenly, jagged against each other. Grey as ghosts, even in sunlight, yet oddly interspersed with lush bright green ferns and a background of living, healthy giant gums.

It didn’t get much better when I found the campsite. A little old witches cottage sat on my left (later to be re-named The Dunny) and in the middle of  the caravans and little tents was a large, eerily, empty tent, the chairs still outside as if someone was just about to return. Still full eskys, cutlery, crockery,  knives and an axe were strewn about the floor before them and a little table with gas stove hid at the back. The kettle sat there, on top, waiting for that invisible touch to ignite the butane cylinder still inside. But the Goblins were no where to be seen... yet! I’ll be honest.  I nearly left there and then.

However the other campers were lovely and explained it had been there for days with the police already visiting and the Ranger would call soon to take it away. So I gingerly parked next to it, pointing the Chihuahua outwards, for a quick getaway. Thank fully the stoic, amused ranger did come and soothed my frayed nerves, explaining it did happen occasionally, for various reasons, then just took it all down and put it in her truck. At which point…. The owner turned up! I will not say anything here… other than….. couldn’t they just have chucked everything in the damn tent before they left, instead of leaving it like the Marie Celeste? Jeeeze.

Despite all this I was Happy I stayed. Brou Lake is tranquil and pristine and I saw hundreds of swans sailing together on it in the morning as I dabbled my toes in its cooling waters. Then with only a thin line of Dunes separating them, at the far end, lies the Ocean. Swimming, fishing and Boating take place on the lake.Yet, though, the beach arches all the way around from Dalgety to Potato Point, the sea is magnificent but too rough for anything but fishing. I also saw lots of wildlife there including my first large Goanna  of this trip! And some very friendly (greedy) kookaburras.

AND. I met a lovely Scotsman, Gordon, who was also traveling Australia, before returning home to travel Europe.  And I have to say He made the stay there one of my best. It’s funny but if you find a friend you have so much in common with- it doesn’t matter where you are. Not even in the enchanted forest. So thank you Gordon and may your journey bring you great happiness.

And to you all- may your Goblins be as imaginary as mine were:-)
The Grey Chihuahua