WATERFALLS, LAKES AND MAGIC

Milla Milla Falls

Magic abounds everywhere in the Atherton Tablelands. Look up and you will see trees so tall they touch the sun, Ferns so wide a whole family can shelter beneath them, lush hills that roll and dip like fairground rollercoasters. And lakes so crystal clear and smooth as glass that they sing with silence.

Coming from the South, I took the inland route to Innisfail, to start my journey, staying at Japoonvale overnight, a lovely free spot next to a wide Liverpool Creek. The scenery was already beginning to be verdant and rich with Cane. I would have stayed a little further up at Mena Creek, but the Hotel there had been forced not to allow campers by the council, due to the stunning but greedy Paronella Park there, which ran its own caravan park.

Paronella Park

Paronella,was built by José Paronella who’s dream was to build a castle. He did build that castle... and so much more!  It was opened in 1935 and is well worth a visit. But I had been before, and, in any case, did not like autocracy it was showing against the hotel.  So, onto Innisfail and the beginning of an adventure. And for me, a love affair, with the beautiful Atherton Tablelands.

Innisfail is a good sized town, and a great place to stock up before going any further. It’s also a good idea to book here for Henrietta Creek (National Park), where I was heading to, as there’s virtually no signal for much of the journey there.

Mamu Skywalk

From here on in you really can see the difference in scenery The roads start to climb and wind into a cooler, fresher climate and cane gives way to rolling hills filled with well fed, soft eyed dairy cows. I almost could imagine the Von Trapp Family from The Sound of Music on the top of one of those hills. . Then slowly, thick, lush, Rainforests abound, waterfalls and gushing creek begin and you are taken into a totally different world. Just before Henrietta Creek Campsite, (which is stunning, spacious, flat and so accessible being set just at the side of the main road, though you wouldn’t know it was there) is Mamu Rainforest SkyWalk. Oh, come on now,…. A walk right up at the top of the trees? Of course I had to!

And Mamu is incredible! At Only $22 for an adult, it was worth twice as much. This is an hour and a half walk that snakes gently up through the lofty rainforest on flat paths and along wide walkways, which jut out above the trees, along steep slopes. The final destination here is the Tower. It takes 100 steps up the stairway to reach the spectacular viewing deck which is 37meters above the ground! Did I make it? Eeeer… OK, not quite. But I did get half way before my legs turned to jelly and I had to make an embarrassing decent, almost crawling down. Maybe that’s not an achievement for some. But believe me, for me IT IS! Plus there are so many wonderful places to sit and watch nature here, the way back was easy. And Henrietta Creek was the perfect place to stay that night. I parked in no 6 bay, a secluded little wooded area not far from Gilligans creek and some lovely falls walks and slept that night with the woodland fairies. Yes the Magic had begun.

Henrietta Creek

Mungalli Falls

The next day I travelled to Mungalli Falls and pulled in at the big café/ student resort at the top. The falls were really lovely with a great viewing platform, but there was a large contingent of Chinese students finishing their breakfasts so I decided to go on up the road to the Organic Dairy and Cheesery. Which was closed till 10am. No worries. The day was young and the scenery of rolling hills and dales and so many beautiful cows was nice to travel through. And so onto the Falls Circuit, which took me to Ellinjaa Falls, Zillie Falls, and MillaMilla Falls.

Milla Milla Falls

 It was a lovely drive and each of the falls spectacular in their own way, but Milla Milla was magnificent! My breath was taken away by these stunning Falls. Perhaps it was due to the fact I had been so lucky to be here on my own and able to wander in freedom, but I could so imagine a great Film being made here. I could picture the camera crews on the grassy platform that floated into the pool at the bottom of the Falls. I could see them panning their shots from the native Australian White Gums at the top of the Falls, down the long drop of white, turbulent waters , then  across the angular, rugged, basalt rocks at the base of the falls, to the still waters beneath. Maybe two people would be here, swimming in the calm waters, playing out a scene. Not of this era, but of ages ago.

Milla Milla Falls Cafe

 I left slowly and reluctantly as the first of the days visitors emerged. But I didn’t travel far. Just up the Road to Milla Milla Falls Café. My stomach told me it was time to eat! And I couldn’t have a lovelier place than this, overlooking the fertile grassy hillsides. After this a quick look at pretty Milla Milla town and then onto Malandra another nice town with a fabulous all things Dairy Cafe where I just HAD to indulge in the homemade cheesecake with homemade ice-cream and real cream. Oh, come on. You would too. Actually the Cafe was really special with life sized cows, a 1940s bar and a TRAIN outside.

  After which I promise you I indulged no more but veered off to Lake Eacham. What can I say? Everywhere I looked here in the Tablelands was awesome! Lake Eacham was undeniably that. A large, round Lake with a gorgeous picnic area, viewing platforms and walks around the lake. So still and tranquil, yet bathed in sunlight. Places to swim, places to look, places to sit. I did the latter two, lol.

 The huge bonus here was my finding Turtles at one of the viewing platforms. Not just a couple mind you, but around 20! And they were families! From Big Mr Turtle, to Medium Mrs Turtle to all sizes of young and baby Turtles! I was enraptured! They seemed equally mesmerized by us I have to say, sticking their heads out of the water and peering up at the strange, ugly creatures above them.  Weird Looking Things, you could almost hear them say.

After that, although Yungburra has to be one of the prettiest towns I have ever seen, nothing could quite overcome the wonder of the Turtles. So getting in supplies again and having a look at some of the interesting shops and galleries there I moved on to Kairi, a little town with a generous, free 24 hr, grassy stopover for the night. My aim for the following day was to be the largest Lake in the Tablelands, Lake Tinaroo. But first a good, very self satisfied sleep was in order.

Magic is everywhere that nature is.
The Grey Chihuahua